Rome – day four – of Popes and Pizza

Rome – day four – of Popes and Pizza

Up, into a taxi and off to the Vatican Museum for our 10am tour. The line out the front was H.U.G.E. The good news, with a tour all booked and paid for, we didn’t have to line up with the plebs. The downside (beside the $200 cost) – lots and lots of other people were queuing up in the same “tours” line as us. The sea of humanity were primarily about security – Xray bag scans and everything, though in ture Italian fashion, if you beep it doesn’t seem to matter so long as your sub-machine gun isn’t showing. We met up with our tour guide, Alexandra, plugged our headsets into our wireless receivers and listened as she narrated us through what is a massive massive collection of ancient and renaissance history – all collected by the Catholic Church. Indicative of the size of the museum, literally hundreds of people through the door every minute were soaked up so that, while the security scan area was literally cheek-by-jowl, the rest of the museum was merely crowded.

What an amazing collection. We walked over mosaic floors that Ceasers had dined on, we were encouraged to pat Egyptian lions of nearly 3000 years of age, we marveled at the original Greek torso of Hercules sculpture that so inspired Michelangelo on its discovery that he’d refused the papal request to add arms and legs all those years later – and we learnt a lot. It was a struggle to keep up with Alexandra at times, despite the little flag (D&G scarf – she was quite the stylish Roman) she had on a pointer – but it was so worth it. Each room we entered she’d highlight an outrageously important piece of art, or tell us a fascinating tale of the detail of another piece, or give us an insight into the characters of the day, be they sculptor, painter, subject or critic. We’ve spent a bit of coin here – but I reckon that was $200 very well spent. Incredible – and topped off by the Sistine Chapel.

We did pause in a ridiculously ornate corridor – roof dripping with frescos, walls festooned with renaissance maps of Italy, not to look at them but at a detailed scrolling diagram of the Chapel ceiling. Alexandra took us through the whole thing, pointing out god doing his biblical thing and even how Michalangelo painted himself and a strident critic into The Last Judgment. Then, after parting ways with our guide, to see the real thing was exquisite. The crowds and the no-photography announcements dropped away and it was with something approaching awe that we stared up at the roof so far above us and so richly coated in paint and history.

Jaw dropping.

Then we made our way outside – snacks in a (relatively) quiet corner before once-around St Peters Basilica. If the museum is indicative of the reach of the church over the centuries, the Basilica tells a tale of pure Papal power. It is immense. Domes dominate the ceiling, far far above, including Michelangelo’s famous one (we didn’t climb it – that was a crazy queue!!). Every nook and cranny was decorated lavishly with marble, gold and iconography out the wazoo! Marble popes in every direction and at least a football field of marble under many many feet – though a fair few acres were under chairs, no doubt in preparation for Easter at the end of the week. We followed the crowd out, not quite as overwrought as the clearly moved Brazilian Nona, down on one knee Hailing Mary like there was no tomorrow. A final fling around St Peters Square – massive, marble, lots of people, you get the picture – and a picture or two with the rather well dressed Swiss guard in the background and it was time to hop another cab to the Spanish Steps.

We’ve kind of taken to cabs. Pretty much every ride around Roma comes in at around $20 – with is about $15 more than the corresponding trip by public transport would cost – but the upside is travelling through this crazy Roman traffic. It’s like a cross between a cool video game and the front seat of a roller coaster, with some pretty incredible sights thrown in to-boot. And we haven’t really been ripped off by a cabby. Sure, most seem to go the long way, but I’m coming to the conclusion that we win there, as were seeing stuff that we just wouldn’t see stuffed away in a darkened Metro carriage.

The Spanish steps were our target, and so deposited the first thing on our minds was a bit of a sit, and a gelato… didn’t quite work out that way. We’ve found that near the main tourist hotspots you get a few Italian equivalent of fast food vans – and they charge a bomb, and there are a number of restaurants, either over priced and average, or VERY toney. So the best bet is to move a block or two from the “Whatever”, then search the menu for price and scope the tables for serve size – and the best so far have been those without the tuxedo’d tout, er, waiter out the front.

So after a bit of people watching on the Spanish steps, a spot of money changing and a little provision procurement, we did just that. The kids are getting quite adept at whipping the laughing gear around the odd pizza – and there are more than a few who’d be aware that it’s one of my favourite pastimes too. Add a beer or a glass of vino bianco del la thingamybob, and suddenly I was having less trouble when the bill came around.

We made our way back ‘home’ for a bit of a siesta – many of the shops shut for a couple of hours in the afternoon, and when they reopen it’s like the city’s got a second dawn. The shutters go back, the lights go on, the people come out again and the increase in energy is near palpable. We chuffed over to check out the Pantheon – yet another 2000 year old building, built by the first Roman Emporer, Augustus and dedicated to his general Marcus Agrippa, one of very few that have been in use right through history. First as a temple for the Roman gods, then Constantine and co turned it into a Christian church as that page of history turned, and most recently it became the resting place of the first monarchs to rule over the united Italy as we know it today – that, and there’s a farkin great hole in the roof! The dome was build somewhere within cooee of the year 0 – (later copied by Michelangelo and co for their’s at St Peter’s, etc.) and when it rains it’s said to be pretty special! It’s gotta be said on that note that we’ve had pretty perfect weather to this point. Most days have been about 20 – tee shirt weather for the brave and we even got a bit sunburnt…hard to believe under a Roman blue sky.
Up, into a taxi and off to the Vatican Museum for our 10am tour. The line out the front was H.U.G.E. The good news, with a tour all booked and paid for, we didn’t have to line up with the plebs. The downside (beside the $200 cost) – lots and lots of other people were queuing up in the same “tours” line as us. The sea of humanity were primarily about security – Xray bag scans and everything, though in ture Italian fashion, if you beep it doesn’t seem to matter so long as your sub-machine gun isn’t showing. We met up with our tour guide, Alexandra, plugged our headsets into our wireless receivers and listened as she narrated us through what is a massive massive collection of ancient and renaissance history – all collected by the Catholic Church. Indicative of the size of the museum, literally hundreds of people through the door every minute were soaked up so that, while the security scan area was literally cheek-by-jowl, the rest of the museum was merely crowded.

What an amazing collection. We walked over mosaic floors that Ceasers had dined on, we were encouraged to pat Egyptian lions of nearly 3000 years of age, we marveled at the original Greek torso of Hercules sculpture that so inspired Michelangelo on its discovery that he’d refused the papal request to add arms and legs all those years later – and we learnt a lot. It was a struggle to keep up with Alexandra at times, despite the little flag (D&G scarf – she was quite the stylish Roman) she had on a pointer – but it was so worth it. Each room we entered she’d highlight an outrageously important piece of art, or tell us a fascinating tale of the detail of another piece, or give us an insight into the characters of the day, be they sculptor, painter, subject or critic. We’ve spent a bit of coin here – but I reckon that was $200 very well spent. Incredible – and topped off by the Sistine Chapel.

We did pause in a ridiculously ornate corridor – roof dripping with frescos, walls festooned with renaissance maps of Italy, not to look at them but at a detailed scrolling diagram of the Chapel ceiling. Alexandra took us through the whole thing, pointing out god doing his biblical thing and even how Michalangelo painted himself and a strident critic into The Last Judgment. Then, after parting ways with our guide, to see the real thing was exquisite. The crowds and the no-photography announcements dropped away and it was with something approaching awe that we stared up at the roof so far above us and so richly coated in paint and history.

Jaw dropping.

Then we made our way outside – snacks in a (relatively) quiet corner before once-around St Peters Basilica. If the museum is indicative of the reach of the church over the centuries, the Basilica tells a tale of pure Papal power. It is immense. Domes dominate the ceiling, far far above, including Michelangelo’s famous one (we didn’t climb it – that was a crazy queue!!). Every nook and cranny was decorated lavishly with marble, gold and iconography out the wazoo! Marble popes in every direction and at least a football field of marble under many many feet – though a fair few acres were under chairs, no doubt in preparation for Easter at the end of the week. We followed the crowd out, not quite as overwrought as the clearly moved Brazilian Nona, down on one knee Hailing Mary like there was no tomorrow. A final fling around St Peters Square – massive, marble, lots of people, you get the picture – and a picture or two with the rather well dressed Swiss guard in the background and it was time to hop another cab to the Spanish Steps.

We’ve kind of taken to cabs. Pretty much every ride around Roma comes in at around $20 – with is about $15 more than the corresponding trip by public transport would cost – but the upside is travelling through this crazy Roman traffic. It’s like a cross between a cool video game and the front seat of a roller coaster, with some pretty incredible sights thrown in to-boot. And we haven’t really been ripped off by a cabby. Sure, most seem to go the long way, but I’m coming to the conclusion that we win there, as were seeing stuff that we just wouldn’t see stuffed away in a darkened Metro carriage.

The Spanish steps were our target, and so deposited the first thing on our minds was a bit of a sit, and a gelato… didn’t quite work out that way. We’ve found that near the main tourist hotspots you get a few Italian equivalent of fast food vans – and they charge a bomb, and there are a number of restaurants, either over priced and average, or VERY toney. So the best bet is to move a block or two from the “Whatever”, then search the menu for price and scope the tables for serve size – and the best so far have been those without the tuxedo’d tout, er, waiter out the front.

So after a bit of people watching on the Spanish steps, a spot of money changing and a little provision procurement, we did just that. The kids are getting quite adept at whipping the laughing gear around the odd pizza – and there are more than a few who’d be aware that it’s one of my favourite pastimes too. Add a beer or a glass of vino bianco del la thingamybob, and suddenly I was having less trouble when the bill came around.

We made our way back ‘home’ for a bit of a siesta – many of the shops shut for a couple of hours in the afternoon, and when they reopen it’s like the city’s got a second dawn. The shutters go back, the lights go on, the people come out again and the increase in energy is near palpable. We chuffed over to check out the Pantheon – yet another 2000 year old building, built by the first Roman Emporer, Augustus and dedicated to his general Marcus Agrippa, one of very few that have been in use right through history. First as a temple for the Roman gods, then Constantine and co turned it into a Christian church as that page of history turned, and most recently it became the resting place of the first monarchs to rule over the united Italy as we know it today – that, and there’s a farkin great hole in the roof! The dome was build somewhere within cooee of the year 0 – (later copied by Michelangelo and co for their’s at St Peter’s, etc.) and when it rains it’s said to be pretty special! It’s gotta be said on that note that we’ve had pretty perfect weather to this point. Most days have been about 20 – tee shirt weather for the brave and we even got a bit sunburnt…hard to believe under a Roman blue sky.